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Clubbing In Ibiza

June 7, 2010

Well, seeing as the boss wrote the last blog, I’ve managed to get first dibs in on this one. I’ve looked back over the last entry and we left you in Ensenada Rapita, on the southern tip of Mallorca. As I write this, we’re anchored in the heart of Club Land Ibiza, San Antonio. Although ‘Rampage’ is about ¼ mile offshore, you’ll be delighted to know that the benefit of the many discos and shows dotted round the bay still reaches out to embrace us! Thus, we can be said to be Clubbing In Ibiza, although it’s the last thing on our minds.

We got here by way of Santa Ponca in Mallorca and various anchorages round the north of the island of Ibiza. Hmmm.. that’s a bit short on detail, so perhaps I’d better go back a bit and let you know what we’ve been up to over the last 10 days or so.

Sunset in Santa Ponca

The trip from Ensenada Rapita to Santa Ponca was brilliant. After a good night’s sleep, we managed to get away fairly early and motored for about an hour before we got a cracking wind right across Palma Bay, making 5 – 6 knots all the way across to round the headland into the bay at Santa Ponsa by late afternoon. By 5 o’clock we were all tucked up in the anchorage and ready to face going ashore to explore the town. Bit of a let-down really, the place is aimed at the mid market tourists and families but not too bad and not crowded at all. J had her eyebrows done whilst I enjoyed a quiet coffee before we beat a retreat to ‘Rampage’.

The following day was expedition day. A new anode for the propeller was required and the only place to stock them in the Islands was in Palma. J also wanted to look at the cathedral and, if possible, get permission from the National Parks Authority to visit the Cabrera Islands. It all sounded so do-able as we talked it through at breakfast. In the end, we managed to get to Palma, only to find the National Park office had been moved but we did manage to get the anode and J got to look at her cathedral. However, neither of us was terribly impressed with Palma, a somewhat disturbing mixture of old and very brash new that we didn’t really take to. We did however, have a delicious lunch whilst there!

The following day, I had an exciting time replacing the variable pitch propeller, along with its new anode. The thing required a large nut and 2 allen screws to fix it in to place. Dead easy if the boat’s out of the water but quite tricky underwater. Any item dropped has to picked up from the sea bed and it’s not always easy to spot things……

The headland leaving Santa Ponca

The next day was earmarked for admin (read – first laundry run for 2 ½ weeks – poo gosh stink!) and shopping. The local marina had told us to go ahead and use their facilities, so we took them over for most of the day. Whilst J was enjoying herself drinking Coke whilst waiting for the washing, I took our dive tanks to be refilled at the dive centre in the marina. When we picked them up later, they very kindly helped us to fill in the forms for Cabrera and faxed them off for us! On the strength of this, we booked a dive with them for the Sunday (the following day,) despite an alarmingly early start time of 9 o’clock!

Our dive the following day was great, a wall dive off the island of Dragonera on the south western tip of Mallorca. There was lots to look at including a number of quite large fish along with clouds of smaller ones, although not as colourful as the Red Sea. It was also quite fun to realise that it is possible to move through the water at speeds greater than 6 knots. As J commented, if we’d gone on ‘Rampage’ we’d have taken all day to get there as opposed to about 30 minutes.

We had planned to move on to Ibiza the following day but after a late wake up we decided to move the following day instead. After a lazy day, we awoke early(ish) the next morning, hoisted the anchor and went into the marina to refill with water before leaving for Ibiza. The trip was mostly done under motor, as there was too little wind. The trip is about 45 miles and we were never out of sight of land – Ibiza emerging from the gloom well before we lost sight of Mallorca.

Our anchorage that night was in San Vicente, a cala not unlike its Mallorcan namesake, fairly step sided, with a tourist development at the head of the inlet. We had a good night’s rest and found a couple of little shops the following morning that sold bread and other essentials.

The anchorage at San Vicente. "Rampage" 2nd from the right.

On our way to shore later that afternoon, we were hailed by another Brit who’d just arrived; he’d caught a tuna on his crossing from Mallorca, didn’t have a proper fridge and offered us a large chunk to stop it going to waste! Never one to look a gift horse in the mouth, the tuna was rapidly accepted, a chunk carved off on the stern and put into the fridge. J and I then had a very pleasant tramp up to the top of one of the headlands overlooking the cala before repairing on board for the most enormous tuna steaks with beans and bread – absolute heaven, as the tuna couldn’t have been much fresher.

That evening, we had texted Lucy (our daughter-in-law) to wish her happy birthday and she’d told us that her sister Emily was on the island, so we called Emily to see if we could meet up. We exchanged messages but didn’t fix anything before we went to bed. After a bad night, caught in a cross swell from the south east, we got up early (7 o’clock!), hoisted the anchor and motored round to Portinatx, about 8 miles away but north facing and out of the swell. Emily had said she was planning on visiting the north coast that day, so I got in touch and told her to give us a call when they got to the cala.

Lucy's sister, Emily

We arrived there by about 9 o’clock and went straight back to bed, having had very little sleep during the night. We were woken by Emily’s text, letting us know they were leaving their villa, so I had time to get ashore and stock up on the vitals (beer) before they arrived. We had a great time, as Emily was in a party of 8, 6 of whom came to visit ‘Rampage’ at one point or another that afternoon. J and I did little else that day after our guests had left, as we were still a little jaded from the night before, (not to mention a fair amount of beer on an empty tum – we never really had lunch that day!)

Portinatx where we met Emily & friends and where we are anchored again this evening.

Our next move was the following day and brought us to San Antonio, where we are still, although we did stop off at Rabbit Island (Isla Conejera,) a nature reserve, for lunch and a swim before finishing the trip. San Antonio is apparently the centre of ‘club culture’ in Ibiza and judging by the noise and light shows I wouldn’t dispute it! Our daughters think it’s hilarious that we’re here. Other than that, as an anchorage it’s very protected and roomy, although not as pretty as many places we’ve been to.

J at one of the gates into the fortress above Ibiza town

Our bus trip to Ibiza town today was one of those things you have to do. We couldn’t really not go, as to say we’ve been to the island but not the town isn’t really on. However, apart from the fortress and the old city between the walls and the harbour, Ibiza town has even less to recommend it than Palma.

Ibiza old town

Looking up towards the cathedral in Ibiza old town

Duncan always stops to talk to any cats; he still misses Nutcase.

We’re now back on ‘Rampage’ having had supper and thinking about bed. Tomorrow we move to Formentera, a small island just south of Ibiza.

Looking across to Formentera from the fortress in Ibiza

Post Script: Our apologies if this seems a little out of date – we were unable to post it due to lack of mobile coverage until now. We had one night anchored off Formentera and today sailed back to Portinatx in northern Ibiza. Negotiating the islands between Formentera and Ibiza was made more interesting as we dodged several very large and fast moving ferries between the two islands. We’ve managed to find enough fresh food & water for sale here this evening to take us through ‘til Wednesday as tomorrow will be spent making the passage back to Santa Ponca in SW Mallorca.

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