Heat and Greece at last

June 25, 2013

The photo above is of the eastern anchorage on Vulcano, which we left on Friday 14 June. The boats you can see belong to a mob – I hesitate to grace them with the name regatta – of French medical students, who disturbed the peaceful place with much loud noise and goings on until well after dawn the next day. We would have let them to it but hadn’t stocked up on food for the trip to Greece, so we couldn’t leave until the following afternoon.

The leg from Vulcano to Lefkas in Greece is just over 300 miles, about 2 and a half days’ sailing. As our route took us through the Straits of Messina, one of the few tidal areas of the Med, we had to time our arrival there to make sure we caught the south-going current. In addition to that, we also wanted to arrive in Greece in daylight, so that meant going through the Straits at night. J had the watch as we entered the northern end and reckons it was the most taxing bit of sailing she’s done in quite some time: dodging ferries, being overtaken by merchant ships and sorting out the land from the sea amid the blaze of lights ashore. Other than the Straits, the trip was uneventful and, mostly, windless. We arrived at about 5 am in Nidri and dropped anchor where we are now, Tranquil Bay. The photo below is taken somewhere between Italy and Greece, showing miles and miles of sea…..


The next few days were taken up with meeting old friends from Gouvia* days (Alan and Bern from “Sanuk”,) sorting our a small mountain of laundry, getting a SIM card for the iPad and doing some geocaching by scooter. After three or four days, we moved to “Little” Vathi on the island of Meganisi with “Sanuk”. We moored there at George’s Taverna, which has its own moorings, offering electricity and water for a nominal charge. The moorings themselves are free on the understanding that you eat at the taverna. We stayed a couple of nights before moving round the corner to Spartachori where Spilios has a taverna offering a similar set-up to George. Whilst we were there, we met up with more friends from Gouvia, Heather and David from “Zinga.”

Unfortunately, our SIM card started to misbehave, so tonight we find ourselves back in Nidri, having been back into Levkas town to interview the Vodafone man and get the card sorted out. Tomorrow, we aim to leave here and go to Port Leone on Kalamos, about three hours’ sailing away. We’ll probably stay there for a couple of days before heading on to Poros on Kephalonia to pick up Jinny, who arrives on 1 July.


Above: Julia near one of the Lefkas caches we found.

Since we got to Greece, the summer has really arrived. The temperature has been in the mid to high thirties with little wind, so taking things easy has been the rule. It doesn’t get much cooler at night and the wind scoop has been a welcome addition to the forward hatch, pulling down what little breeze there is into the boat.

It’s been great meeting up with old friends and it is lovely being back here in the southern Ionian with all the little coves and bays to explore. We even found the Port Police to be helpful, stamping up our Depka on arrival from Italy with no questions! Our visitors start to arrive soon, with Jinny next week, followed by Susie, then Polly and finally Andy towards the end of August. Lizzie is also aiming to come but has yet to book flights, so we don’t know when to expect her yet!


Taverna Spilios on Meganisi. Great pork chops at a very reasonable price and a BIG washing machine.

*Gouvia is the marina on Corfu where we spent the winter of 2010/11.



  1. Pork chops and a big washing machine – what more could you need?! Thanks for another lovely installment of the blog – it brightened up a night’s report writing. Happy caching Mags xxxxxxxx

  2. Well done, night watch!
    Looks like you’ve got a busy few weeks ahead. Looking forward to the stories.

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